CLIPPER BLADE SHARPENING AUSTRALIA - ANIMAL CLIPPER BLADE SHARPENING OF AUSTRALIA

OSTER A5 TROUBLE SHOOTING

ANIMAL CLIPPER BLADE SHARPENING OF AUSTRALIA

Rattling Blades

If your blades are rattling get a pair of plies, and bend the top wing into the center of the socket a tiny bit, see pix below.

TO REPAIR RATTLING BLADES

socket.

BEND INWARDS SLIGHTLY BOTH WINGS

BLADE TENSION

Blade tension is very important, if the tension is to tight, the blade will get hot quickly, the metal will distort, and then the blade won't work, if the tension is to loose the blades

Will allow the fur to get between the top cutter & the bottom plate, and the blade will go FRIZZY of sorts.

To loosen the blades tension, use a flat screwdriver, pries the spring up a tiny bit, and re-test, keep going till the blade feels firm, but not to tight to move.

To tighten the spring you have to remover all the parts on the blades, and squash the hook at the back of the spring tensioner a tinniest amount, re assembly the parts, re-test see pix below.

DOG CLIPPING ADVISE

Not all breeds of dogs are clipped, but quite a few are, and the degree of clipping may vary considerably from a "tidy or clean up" job to a "fashionable clip" as in the case of some Poodle clips.

Many dogs are clipped either because the necessity to keep the dog well groomed which in turn helps to keep it healthy, or for the purposes of easier management as a house pet. Principle areas which are clipped will vary from breed to breed, but usually include the head, ears, cheeks, neck, shoulders, sides, underbody, feet and tail.

Specific areas may be deemed necessary to clip for a variety of reasons.

Sever matting of the coat may require resorting to clipping using a #10 or #7 "detachable" blade. This will allow the coat to re-grow and with attention to regular grooming it should be possible to prevent the reoccurrence of further mats.

Many long haired breed are often clipped between the pads of the feet to prevent an accumulation of hair which may collect dirt and other material leading to the discomfort of the dog. Some groomers will remove this hair using scissors, but many people use either a #10 or #15 " detachable" blade or one of the popular paw blades such as a#5/8th.

The stomach is an area often where the hair is clipped for either sanitary or cosmetic purposes. Great caution should be exercised to ensure that clipper burns are not experienced when clipping this area. White dogs and those with sensitive skins require special attention, as they may well prove very susceptible to clipper burns. An alternative to clipping would be to use scissors even if it prolongs the job.

Clipper Burns are usually the result of the blade on the clipper becoming hot. (Usually the result of insufficient applications of oil being applied regularly to the blades!) They may also occur if the operator clips over a sensitive area such as the face, feet, tail or stomach too many times with a close cutting "detachable" blade such as sizes #50/40/30/15 or #10. Care must be take to keep the clipper blade and clipper head cool at all times which requires the operator to be disciplined in the procedure of frequent oiling of the blades. There are a number of coolants manufactured which can be applied to the blades, some of which are beneficial to the problem, but regular applications of oil are a MUST! Every few minutes! If using a coolant, remember you are washing the protective oil off your blades, re-oil blade after using coolant.

With the use of blade coolants there is always a possibility of a reaction from some animals especially if they have sensitive skins.

Clippers burns are viewed as a sign of carelessness!

Only ever clip a dog which is dry and clean. Ideally before you clip the dog it should be bathed and thoroughly washed using a good quality shampoo. Work the shampoo well into the coat when suitably cleansed rinsed well with clean water being careful to remove any shampoo still deep in the coat. Towel the dog if you do not possess a dryer, otherwise dry thoroughly with a warm air dryer suitably positioned to dry the animal without causing it distress.

When using a clipper if it is a mains appliance ensure the cable is clear of any obstacles and not in the way of your feet. Get your self well organised, and have a safe and secure place to put the machine when not in use even if only for a few moments. Many clippers are fitted with a "hanging loop" Use it and hang your clipper up when not using it! A clipper which accidentally falls to the ground may easily result in either a broken blade, broken casing, or internal damage all of which apart from terminating the clipping, can also be costly!

During the operation of "actual" clipping keep your wrist flexible and relaxed. This is very important because if the animal should suddenly decide to move whilst you are in the process of clipping, hair removed from the wrong place, or worse, a cut to the dog's body may result. Always keep the face of the blade "flat" to the body. Never attempt to angle or dig into the skin with the machine. Allow the clipper to do the work and don't be in a hurry! Rushing may result in an accident!

Listen to the clipper, if the tone of the motor changes, more oil may be required. If the blades suddenly start to chatter you may be trying to go through the coat too fast. If the blades appear to refuse to cut into the hair try drawing back and re-approach the hair again but this time in a slower manner. Blades can refuse to cut for a number of reasons; often one single hair trapped between the two blades (cutter and comb) can stop the cutting action.

Always follow the grain of the hair unless otherwise so instructed. Going against the grain will result in a finished cut half of the depth for which the blade is selected. For example a #10 2mm blade would give a finish cut of not 2mm but 1mm! On older dogs or those, which have excess fat or conversely are extremely thin "stretch the skin with your hand as this will make clipping both easier and far safer for the dog. If you do not, you may easily cut the surface!

After clipping discipline yourself to immediately cleaning both your clipper and the blades used. Not only is this a good and sensible practice, but it will over the years also save you considerable sums of money on unnecessary repairs and other bills. Having suitable cleaned and re-oiled your machine and the blade next carefully put them away in a dry and secure place.

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Horses - NEED CLIPPING!

Horses having evolved over millions of years have as a result adapted well to the various weather patterns and climatic conditions in which they live. In general by the time winter comes in your area most horse and ponies will have grown a good full winter coat in order to protect themselves from the cold and wet weather conditions of winter. This coat will be considerably thicker than the short sleek summer coat.

That is fine of course if our horses are going to experience a natural outdoor life for which nature has prepared them. However with the modern trend of stabling, feeding concentrated foods, and providing artificial warmth, we human change all that, and the natural protection provided becomes not so necessary. In fact for horses which are to be worked either by hunting, competing, or just plain exercise during the winter months it can be positively harmful.

Horse carrying a thick winter coat will quickly overheat from fast work or in exceptionally mild weather conditions, which can often be the case especially with the result that they sweat excessively to compensate for this.

This creates a unhealthy state of affairs for a number of reasons which briefly are as follows

Distress during working
Possible loss of condition
Difficulty in getting fit for working
Parasite control - more difficult with a thick coat
Getting a horse which has exercised dry before it chills
In addition there are associated difficulties such as Grooming problems with a full coat.
Keeping clean those who enjoy "wallowing" in mud

Horses which are to have their winter coats removed (this is known as the first clip) and a further clip is performed around several months later, with a third cut, around three months just before autum if required. These are the normal times for clipping, but be mindful that no one year is the same and weather conditions are changable.

Clipping is something to think about, don't just rush into it. Horses should be clipped for a reason! Remember a clipped horse requires just as much time if indeed not more, as well as additional expenditure, so think before you clip!

There are a number of various "clips" you can opt for and these will depend on which suit your circumstances best. Gear the “clip” to the nature of the work your horse will be required to do. To commit the "sin" of clipping off more coat than required, is considered “very bad management”, apart from which it will cost you a good deal more in extra feed, hay, bedding and rugs to keep the animal comfortable!

Clipper burns are viewed as a sign of carelessness!

For different horse clips go to the link below it is well done.

http://www.peasridge.co.uk/clipper-advice/clippers-clipping-advice-horses-types-of-horse-clips.shtml

STOCKINGS PICK UP PET HAIR

I have discovered the fastest, cheapest way to make housework a whole lot

easier for pet owners! I have four dogs and a cat and am consequently always

sweeping the floors. Special mops for wooden floors or 'static' types are

very expensive but by chance I saw something on television recently which

gave me an idea. I modified my old broom by fitting a stocking over the

bristle part and then simply swept the floors as usual. It was amazing!

Animal hair stuck to the stocking like a magnet and dust and dirt was

collected far better than using a broom alone. To prove a point I swept the